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Peppers

Please select the type of pepper you wish to view

Hot Peppers

Spice (Paprika) Peppers

Sweet Peppers


Peppers
(Capsicum annuum, Capsicum chinense, and Capsicum baccatum)

CULTURE: Sow seeds 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep in well-drained soil in shallow flats. Maintain soil temperature at least 75-85 deg. F (24 -29 deg. C) for good germination. Germination of pepper seed takes 2 to 3 weeks, sometimes 4 weeks depending on variety and soil temperature. Wet and cool conditions will cause poor germination and damping off. Transplant to 3" pots as soon as several leaves have developed. Maintain day temperature 75-80 deg. F (24-27 deg. C), and night temperature at least 65 deg. F (18 deg. C). Water plants with warm water. Transplant again to 5-inch pots if the seedlings become too large. Peppers need to have an uncrowded root system, otherwise subsequent yields will be reduced. Harden the plants by giving them plenty of light and setting them outside for a few hours on warm days. Be careful not to let the plants wilt. Don't rush the season: a good rule of thumb is to transfer peppers to the garden after the dogwood blossoms have fallen, or when average soil temperature is 65 deg. F (18 deg. C) or above. Space plants 18" apart in rows or blocks. Wait to mulch peppers until July so that the soil can heat up. Small- fruited varieties tolerate hot humid conditions better than large-fruited varieties. Once flowering begins, fertilizer should be withheld; otherwise, flowers may drop without setting fruit. Other factors causing flower drop are low humidity (sometimes caused by wide spacing), poor pollination, full fruit set, or night temperatures above 80 deg. F (27 deg. C) or below 65 deg. F (18 deg. C). In the greenhouse, pollinate peppers the same way tomatoes are pollinated. Maintain high levels of phosphorus for sustained yields. Once fruit production begins, short stakes may be necessary to prevent large-fruited varieties from falling over.

FLAVOR: Peppers are fully ripe when orange or red. Although all peppers may be eaten in the green stage, ripening to red or orange increases flavor and nearly doubles the vitamin C content.

EXTENDED HARVEST: Before the first killing frost uproot plants and place the roots in a bucket of water and store in a cool location to extend harvest by one month, or grow the variety 'Permagreen' which is an excellent keeper.

DISEASES: Peppers are fairly disease resistant, but are susceptible to anthracnose, bacterial leaf spot, and tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). Use resistant varieties and control aphids. Mosaic may not kill plants but will greatly reduce the yield. Keep cigarettes out of the garden and greenhouse.

PHYSIOLOGICAL DISEASES: Sunscald is common on varieties that have sparse foliage. Blossom-end rot is less common in peppers than tomatoes, and is due to inadequate calcium supply or uneven supply of water.

SEED SAVERS: Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers. Isolate sweet varieties by 150', and hot and sweet varieties by 300'.

NOTE: Days to maturity are days after transplanting.

PACKET: 0.5 g (about 60 to 100 seeds, depending on variety) sows 35 to 100' of transplants.

SEEDS/OZ: 3,500 to 5,000 depending on variety.

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