Category Archives: Garden Advice

How to Create an Edible Landscape

Edible landscaping is trending on the internet, and it’s easy to understand why people want to add food to their yard. Grocery prices are high, and the news has been full of outbreaks of food-borne illnesses. Droughts and gas prices are making lawn care another expensive chore. An edible landscape can be the perfect blend of functionality and beauty for a gardener who is low on the space or time required for a traditional vegetable patch. If you’re ready to convert part of your outdoor space to an edible landscape, here’s how to get started. 

What is Edible Landscaping?

Edible landscaping is a method that gardeners use to add food-producing crops to traditional ornamental spaces like front yards, flower beds, patios, or balconies. The goal is to combine aesthetics, productivity, and sustainability. Some gardeners incorporate other techniques like container gardening, raised beds, or permaculture into their plans.

Check with Your HOA and Town or City Regulations

If you live in an area with an HOA, your edible landscape design may need to meet additional guidelines. Thoroughly read over regulations before purchasing plants or starting your project to avoid disappointment.

Keep in mind that towns and cities may also have access or right-of-ways in your front yard that must be kept clear so that they can reach and repair utility lines or fire hydrants.

Nasturtiums blooming in an edible landscape

Choosing a Location

Gardeners are a creative bunch, and you can find images of incredible edible landscapes tucked into some wild places, from narrow side yards and verges to rooftop raised beds and balcony railings. There are no hard rules, but you want to ensure you’re choosing a safe site.

When selecting a site on the ground, consider any environmental toxins in the area. Was this vacant lot previously used as a mechanic’s shop or a dumping area? Does the town spray herbicides near your location? For beds on rooftops or other structures, weight is an important consideration. Ensure your space has the support to hold heavy soil and plants.

If you don’t have the space for a garden on your property, you could also approach a community organization like a town park, library, religious organization, or existing community garden about working with them on a collaborative project for your town.

Edible Landscape Design

Traditional vegetable gardening maximizes productivity, usually by creating long rows that are easy to seed, weed, and harvest. If you want to create an incredible edible landscape design, you also need to consider aesthetics.

Start with a Plan

While you can just start planting, it’s often easier to draw or mark out some sort of plan. During the planning stage, it’s also a good idea to gather inspiration from other gardeners and find a gardening style that you enjoy and that works well for your space. 

Do you like traditional style gardens with a lot of symmetry, wilder English cottage style gardens, or modern spaces with bold shapes? Do you live in a humid climate and need disease-tolerant plants, or do you live somewhere hot and dry where drought tolerance is of the utmost importance? Taking these into consideration will help you create a successful design.

Think About the Year-Round Picture

Great landscapes have elements of year-round appeal. To build this into your edible design, try incorporating a few evergreens, plants that offer colorful fall foliage, and attractive permanent structures like stone walls, birdbaths, or obelisks.

Consider Repetition

If you’ve looked at ornamental landscapes, you may notice that designers often repeat certain plants throughout the design. It can be tempting to pack in as many unique species as you can, but repeating a few species can help you create a cohesive design.

Create Interest with Height, Texture, and Shape

Designers also create interest by selecting plants with varying heights, shapes, and textures. Mix and match plants like tall, lacy asparagus fronds or stately evergreen shrubs with medium-height flowers like rudbeckia or echinacea and ground covers like thyme or strawberries.

A dwarf apple tree covered with apples in front of a trellis with flowers in an edible landscape

What Plants to Use for Edible Landscaping

There are so many great vegetables, herbs, and even flowers that work well in edible landscape designs while lowering the grocery bill. Many gardeners may also want to consider selecting native species for their landscapes.

Vegetables

We think all of our vegetables are beautiful, but here are a few that are especially easy to squeeze in with the ornamentals.

  • Malabar Spinach
  • Hot Peppers
  • Asparagus
  • Swiss Chard
  • Cherry Tomatoes
  • Rhubarb
  • Amaranth

Herbs

Herbs are a great choice for seamlessly blending into beautiful landscapes and they bring some much flavor to the kitchen!

  • Basil
  • Thyme
  • Sage
  • Rosemary
  • Oregano

Chives

Flowers

Flowers offer so much more than beauty! Here’s some great edible options for your landscape.

  • Nasturtiums
  • Chamomile
  • Roses
  • Bergamot
  • Zinnias
  • Marigolds

See our full post on edible flowers and how to use them in your kitchen.

Fruit Trees & Shrubs

Fruit trees and shrubs are a great perennials for an edible landscape. Apple

  • Red Mulberry (native)
  • Apple
  • Cherry
  • Blueberry (native)
  • American Black Elderberry (native)
  • Fig
  • Serviceberry (native)
  • Peach

Build Your Garden Over Time

Great gardens aren’t built overnight, especially if you’re working with a large space. You may dream of transforming your entire front yard, but it’s probably easier to start with just the beds in front of the porch. Creating beautiful, functional edible landscapes can take a lot of time, money, and effort. Starting small can help make this process more manageable and will help you develop your personal style over time.

12 Mustard Greens You Can Grow This Fall

Mustard greens are an excellent, fast-growing crop for the fall garden. They’re easy to care for and in some areas can be grown right through the winter with a bit of protection. As baby greens, they’re great in salads and sandwiches, and as they mature, they’re perfect for adding a little extra spice to stir-fries, sides, and sauces. At Southern Exposure, we carry 12 unique varieties that are perfect for the fall garden.

For each variety, we list the days to maturity for large greens. For most varieties, baby greens will be ready to harvest in just 20 to 30 days. To grow mustard exclusively as baby greens for salad mixes, plant them closely together. The petioles will elongate for an easy harvest.

Field of Carolina Broadleaf Mustard Greens

Carolina Broadleaf Mustard

Days to Maturity: 42 days

For years, “Florida Broadleaf” was a classic favorite. Unfortunately, it’s now having issues with bacterial blight. Thankfully, Carolina breeders weren’t ready to let the old favorite mustard greens die, and bred Carolina Broadleaf.

This new variety has the same great flavor paired with excellent disease resistance. It’s excellent for fresh baby greens or more mature for cooking.

Feaster Family Heirloom Mustard Greens

Days to Maturity: 45 days

This incredible variety features broad, pale green, smooth leaves that can get quite enormous, reaching 2 feet tall. The leaves have a nice spicy bite that sweetens when they cook, and a large, crunchy, juicy midrib.

This heirloom is from the Feaster family in Shiloh, Florida. They grew it for many generations on their Florida Pioneer Family Farm. They report it grows well year-round in north Florida, but does best during the cooler months there when it’s greens season. Thanks to Working Food and Jerome Feaster for the seed!Horned Mustard Greens

Horned Mustard

Days to Maturity: 41 days

These compact plants feature lightly frilled, bright green leaves. They’re named for a small horn that emerges from the stem. The leaves are tender and spicy when raw but mild when cooked.

Texas grower Tim Miller grows Horned Mustard fall through spring in his hot climate.Early Mizuna Mustard

Early Mizuna Mustard Greens

Days to Maturity: 37 days

Don’t enjoy spicy raw mustards? This is the mustard variety for you! Early Mizuna is extremely mild, yet still has classic mustard flavor. It tastes great in salads, even for those who dislike the spiciness often associated with raw mustards. It’s also an excellent cooking green.

While Early Mizuna has many benefits, it’s not our most cold-hardy mustard. The delicate, frilly greens are frost-tender, so not recommended for late fall crops, especially in northern climates.Old Fashioned Ragged Edge Mustard Greens

Old Fashioned Ragged Edge Mustard

Days to Maturity: 42 days

This old favorite has always been a popular variety in Virginia and the Carolinas. It produces long, narrow, deeply cut leaves that are excellent for salad greens. Old Fashioned Ragged Edge is mild yet packed with flavor.

In spring, these mustard greens tend to bolt early, but it’s a great option for fall and one of the best mustards for superior flavor.A row of red giant mustard greens surrounded by other varieties

Red Giant Mustard Greens

Days to Maturity: 43 days

Looking for something colorful? A beautiful mustard from Japan, Red Giant has well-savoyed leaves, predominantly reddish-purple with an undercoat of deep green. It’s a great baby green for adding color and a hit of spice to salad mixes.

This variety has good cold tolerance and a strong mustard flavor. It also has more insect-resistance than other varieties.Ruby Streaks Mustard greens

Ruby Streaks Mustard Greens

Days to Maturity: 40 days

Ruby Streaks is a striking variety with lacy, frilly leaves that range from deep purple and maroon to green. It’s a popular option for gourmet salads and garnishes. In colder weather, they become greener.

This variety has just the right level of spiciness and adds a great touch of color to salads. It’s good in stir-fries as well.Southern Giant Curled Mustard greens on a plate

Southern Giant Curled Mustard

Days to Maturity: 45 days

This old Southern favorite dates back to before 1880! It features large, bright green leaves with attractively curled leaf edges. It offers great peppery flavor that mellows when it’s cooked.

Southern Giant Curled Mustard is perfect for late sowings, it has excellent cold tolerance and good bolting resistance.Tatsoi Mustard

Tatsoi Mustard

Days to Maturity: 43 days

Want to grow mustard greens all winter? This is the most cold-hardy (22°F) commonly available mustard. It’s very attractive, good for all seasons, and long-lasting. It’s perfect for growing in winter in a hoop house or tunnel.

Tatsoi produces rosettes of thick, dark green, oval-shaped leaves with mild mustard flavor. It’s excellent for stir-fry or salads.Tokyo Bekana Chinese Cabbage

Tokyo Bekana Chinese Cabbage

Days to Maturity: 44 days

Tokyo Bekana is one of our favorite varieties for salad greens. It produces fast-growing plants with enormous, loose heads of light green, ruffled leaves with very mild, almost lettuce-like flavor. It also has good frost tolerance.

This variety has also been grown and eaten on the International Space Station! Read more about Tokyo Bekana in space.White-Stemmed Pak Choi (Bok Choy)

White-Stemmed Pak Choi (Bok Choy)

Days to Maturity: 45 days

A popular choice for Asian cuisine, this variety features tender, light green, spoon-shaped leaves with thick white ribs. It’s crisp, mild, and great for cooking. The stems also make a good celery substitute.

White-stemmed Pak Choi is very cold resistant making it a superb choice for gardeners looking for extended fall and winter harvests.Yukina Savoy

Yukina Savoy

Days to Maturity: 45 days

Yukina Savoy produces an upright rosette of dark green, highly savoyed, spoon-shaped leaves. It’s like a larger version of Tatsoi, with stems similar to Pak Choi. It has a pleasant, mild flavor and is a great mustard green for cooking, especially in Asian cuisine.

Yukina Savoy also has good heat tolerance for those in hot climates or growers planning for spring crops.

 

Mustard greens are a great option for your fall garden. They’re highly nutritious, packed with flavor, and cold hardy. Grab one of these great varieties and our greens growing guide to enjoy them in your garden.

Choosing the Right Soil Amendments

Healthy soil is critical to good production, but no-one starts with perfect soil. Successful gardeners add amendments to their soil to adjust its pH, texture, nutrient levels, and other properties over time. Understanding soil amendments can help you choose the right ones to add to your garden.

Start with Soil Tests

To avoid wasting time and money, it’s a good idea to start with soil tests so that you will know exactly what you need. There are a couple of different soil tests you can do.

Soil Texture: The Jar Test

For this test, all you need is a jar, water, and a sample of your soil. It’s easy to complete at home and can give you information on the type of soil texture you have, like clay, loam, or sand.

Learn how to complete the jar test here.

Comprehensive Soil Testing

While there are some at-home soil tests that give information like pH, we recommend growers opt for a comprehensive soil test through their local extension agency or agricultural college. These soil tests are cheap and offer a wealth of information about the available nutrients and pH of your soil. Experts at the facility can also make recommendations on how to amend your soil based on your test results.

Learn more about having your soil tested here.

Soil Amendments to Add Organic Matter and Improve Soil Texture

Once you have your soil test results, you can start improving your soil. Few gardeners are blessed with loam right off the bat, so most will need to work on soil texture. Whether you have sand, clay, or silt soils, these amendments can help build up organic matter, improve drainage, reduce compaction, and improve water retention.

Compost

Finished compost is hands down one of the best soil amendments, no matter what your soil is like to start. Finished compost adds nutrients, adds organic matter, and improves soil texture. There’s no risk of overdoing it with finished compost; you can actually fill raised beds with nothing but compost.

Learn to make your own compost at home.

Aged Manure

Aged manure has similar properties to compost and is often available at garden supply centers in bags. If you don’t have enough compost, it can be an affordable way to add organic matter and nutrients to your soil while improving soil texture.

Generally, we don’t recommend adding fresh manure to a bed. Fresh manure has the potential to burn plants, and it can run off during the rain, adding nitrogen and other nutrients to local watersheds, which contribute to toxic algae blooms.

You should also be careful about sourcing manure that isn’t specifically for garden use. Unfortunately, the widespread use of herbicides in the United States means that animal hay and feed is often contaminated. When livestock like horses and cattle eat food containing herbicides, these chemicals pass into their manure and then into your garden, where they will kill vegetable crops.

A bioassay test can help you determine if manure is safe to use.

Sphagnum peat moss soil amendments
Ragesoss, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Peat Moss or Coconut Coir

Peat moss improves soil texture, increases acidity, and is a good option for loosening heavy clay soils. However, we now prefer not to use it because it’s a non-renewable resource that’s harvested from peat bogs.

Coconut coir is a sustainable alternative for potting mixes, but can be too pricey to amend a large area. Unlike peat moss, coconut coir doesn’t make the soil more acidic.

Vermiculite or Perlite

Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral that looks like little golden-brown or silvery-gray pebbles. In the soil, it improves aeration and drainage. It also acts like a sponge, holding and slowly releasing moisture, which is why is a popular ingredient in seed starting mixes.

Perlite is a natural volcanic glass that looks like little white rocks. In the soil, it improves aeration and drainage and reduces compaction. Like vermiculite, it’s popular for seed-starting mixes.

Other Options

Mulch and cover crops are great options to use with soil amendments to improve soil texture. As these break down, they will loosen the soil and add organic matter. Some of our favorite mulches for adding organic matter include old leaves, wood chips, grass clippings, and straw.

Buckwheat, wheat, rye, oats, and sunn hemp are good cover crops for adding organic matter and improving soil texture. Daikon radishes are another good cover crop option, especially for heavy clay soils, as their large roots can help break up hardpans and improve drainage and aeration as they break down.

Soil pH of North America Map
Soil pH of North America Map from the University of Wisconsin – Madison Center for Sustainability and the
Global Environment (SAGE)

Soil Amendments to Adjust Soil pH

Soil pH measures how alkaline (basic) or acidic your soil is on a scale from 0 to 14. On the pH scale, a value of 7.0 is neutral, while numbers below 7.0 are acidic and numbers above 7.0 are alkaline.

All crops have an ideal pH range, but for most vegetables this is slightly acidic to neutral, falling between 6.0 and 7.0. Soil that’s too alkaline or too acidic can prevent crops from easily absorbing nutrients. Soil amendments can help you adjust your soil pH to reach the ideal range for your crops.

The natural soil pH of soil ranges by region. In the eastern United States, most gardeners will find that they are starting with acidic soil.

Learn more about soil pH affects plants.

Lime

If you have soil that’s too acidic and need to raise the pH a bit, agricultural lime or dolomitic lime made from crushed limestone are great choices. When mixed into the soil, they release compounds like calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate, which react with excess hydrogen ions in the soil and raise the pH.

While lime is the most common option for amending acidic soil, there are also a few other options like biochar or wood ash.

Sulfur

To lower your soil pH and make it more acidic, garden sulfur is the most common choice. Sulfur releases hydrogen ions into the soil, gradually reducing the soil pH. Some gardeners use garden sulfur or fertilizer with sulfur for acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, or hydrangeas, some of which turn blue in acidic soil.

Other options for lowering soil pH include pine needles, peat moss, and fertilizer.

Fresh vegetable scraps in a compost bin
Goyojona, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Soil Amendments to Add Nutrients

While having rich, fertile soil is a good thing, it’s important to remember that too much of any one nutrient can also lead to problems. For example, too much nitrogen will cause lush foliar growth with little fruit or root development in plants like tomatoes and sweet potatoes.

Agricultural experts divide nutrients into two categories. The first is macronutrients, which include primary nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and secondary nutrients sulfur, magnesium, and calcium. The second category is micronutrients or trace minerals and includes boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. While these are still important to plant health, they’re needed in such small quantities that it’s less likely your plant is deficient in one of these micronutrients.

For this post, we’ll focus on macronutrients and the soil amendments that can help you add them into your garden.

Nitrogen Rich Soil Amendments

There are many ways to add nitrogen to your soil. Depending on your needs and product availability, you can increase nitrogen levels with bone meal, fish emulsion, liquid kelp, cottonseed meal, coffee grounds, soybean meal, compost, manure, or fertilizer. You can also grow nitrogen-fixing legume cover crops in your rotation to keep nitrogen levels up each season.

Phosphorus Rich Soil Amendments

You can add phosphorus to your soil using rock phosphate, greensand, compost, or bone meal.

Potassium Rich Soil Amendments

Good potassium sources include manure, compost, seaweed or kelp meal, potash, granite dust, greensand, and wood ashes.

Sulfur Rich Soil Amendments

Add sulfur with gypsum, compost, or sulfur.

Magnesium Rich Soil Amendments

To correct a magnesium deficiency, add limestone, manure, compost, or greensand.

Calcium Rich Soil Amendments

Use oyster shells, eggshells, limestone, gypsum, or fish meal to add calcium to your soil.

While a soil test will give you the best information, you can also learn to recognize signs of deficiencies in your plants. Check out our previous post, Common Signs of Nutrient Deficiencies in Plants.