Category Archives: Garden Advice

Success with Sweet Corn in Small Spaces

Fresh sweet corn is one of the joys of summer and growing it yourself makes it even more special! However, sweet corn’s soil, space, and pollination requirements can make it tricky to grow in a small garden. Thankfully, with a few tips, you can get a great sweet corn harvest even in a small space.

Amend Your Soil and Feed Your Corn

Sweet corn grows best when the soil pH is between 5.8 and 7.0, or is slightly acidic to neutral. In most of the Southeast, we typically have moderately acidic soils. Getting your soil tested and liming your garden if necessary can help with production.

Your corn will also perform best in well-drained soil that’s rich in organic matter. We like to add several inches of finished compost to the top of our beds before planting. While we often picture sweet corn as a crop for large fields, there’s no reason you can’t grow it in raised beds, which is one way to establish rich, well-draining soil quickly, no matter what you’re starting with.

Corn is a heavy feeder and benefits from another application of fertilizer, compost, or manure while it’s growing. When your plants reach about one foot in height, side-dress your sweet corn with compost, manure, or fertilizer. If you’re using a traditional or organic granular fertilizer, select one with a balanced N-P-K ratio or one that is high in nitrogen. Getting your soil tested will also help inform your selection so you know if your soil is low in phosphorus and potassium.

Do not use “Weed and Feed” products that contain fertilizer and weed killer; these will contaminate your soil and kill vegetable crops.

Plant in Blocks or Circles

Unlike most of our vegetable crops, which are insect-pollinated, corn is wind-pollinated. The wind carries pollen from the corn tassels to the silks of each ear of corn. Each silk corresponds to a kernel on that ear. If you’ve ever had ears of corn missing full kernels, it was likely a pollination issue. In order for each kernel of corn on an ear to fill out on an ear of corn, it must be pollinated.

Large farms plant long rows of corn, but they also have large enough fields to ensure good wind pollination. If you’re working with a small space and less corn, we recommend planting in blocks or even circles. Each block should be about five rows wide.

Sweet corn plants with mulch covering the soil
Mulch around sweet corn plants at Midway Farms in Warsaw, VA

Water Consistently

Many of the flour, flint, and dent corn varieties we offer are highly drought tolerant, having bed bred for centuries to survive and thrive without modern irrigation. Sweet corn is only moderately drought-tolerant and requires about one to two inches of water per week, especially in hot climates, to produce nice, full ears.

As most of the Southeast is still in drought, watering your sweet corn is crucial for good production. To help reduce your corn’s water needs, use drip irrigation or soaker hoses, which water the soil directly to avoid evaporation loss. You can also avoid evaporation by watering in the early morning or evening. Irrigation on a timer is great for this. Mulching around the base of your corn once it’s a few inches tall can also help keep the soil cool and moist.

Hand Pollinate Your Sweet Corn

Along with planting in blocks, you can also use hand pollination to ensure you get a crop of full, sweet ears. To hand-pollinate your corn at home, watch for when the tassels have fully opened and the anthers start releasing pollen.

When pollen is being released, take scissors and cut off the entire tassel, trying not to knock all the pollen off onto the ground. Then rub that tassel across the silks of the ears of corn on nearby plants. You don’t need to cut every tassel; just do a few to ensure you’ve spread pollen to each ear of corn. Wind will help spread the remaining pollen around. It’s that simple!

Hand pollination is also a common method seed growers employ when isolating multiple sweet corn varieties without enough isolation distance. Besides hand-pollinating through the method above, they also remove and bag all the tassels before they begin releasing pollen to prevent any additional cross-pollination with nearby corn.

Sweet corn plants in a small garden
Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Choose a Fast-Growing Variety and Grow Multiple Successions

Another issue with growing sweet corn in small gardens is that it’s one and done. Unlike your cut and come again lettuce that will give you weeks of salad or cherry tomatoes you can pick until frost, each stalk will only grow one or two ears of corn.

Thankfully, most sweet corn varieties are pretty quick-growing. In most climates, it’s possible to get multiple successions. Sow your first 5 blocks in spring after your last chance of frost when the oak leaves are the size of squirrel ears. Then you can sow another 5 blocks two to three weeks later or when another early spring crop like peas or spinach is finished for the season.

Harvest and Use Your Sweet Corn

For first time growers, knowing when to harvest their ears can be confusing. However, there are a couple of telltale signs to watch for that indicate your corn is ready for harvest. About 18 to 24 days after your corn’s silks appear, they will be dry and brown on the ends, indicating they’re ready to pick. Ripe sweet corn will be in the milk stage, meaning if you peel back the husk a bit and burst a kernel with a thumbnail, a white, milky fluid will come out.

Sweet corn is best enjoyed as quickly as possible after harvest. When you pick the ears, they start converting sugars to starches. Depending on the variety, they may be good for one to seven days in your refrigerator; of course, we recommend enjoying them the day you pick them.

If you have extra sweet corn, you can blanch and freeze it on or off the ears. You can also blanch and dehydrate the kernels for soups and stews later in the year. Lastly, you can preserve sweet corn by pressure-canning it. Note that water bath canning isn’t safe for sweet corn.

Guide to Greenhouse Tomatoes

We’re seeing more and more gardeners and backyard farmers using hoop houses, high tunnels, and greenhouses for tomato production. They’re a great option for getting an extra-early harvest of tomatoes and other heat-loving crops. However, they also come with their own set of disadvantages, especially here in the hot, humid Southeast. For a great harvest of greenhouse tomatoes, consider these varieties and growing tips.Greenhouse Tomatoes Table

Best Varieties

You can grow any tomato in a hoop house, but some will perform better than others. An enclosed greenhouse or hoop house offers different climatic and pest conditions than out in the field. Here are some of our favorite greenhouse tomato varieties.

V, F, and N at the end of a variety name indicate known resistance to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and nematodes, respectively. Check out our full Key to Tomato Disease Tolerance for other abbreviations.

Ventilate Your Greenhouse

High humidity allows fungal diseases to thrive. As the summer gets hot and humid, you need to ventilate your hoop house or greenhouse well to avoid disease. Where possible, roll up the hoop house sides. Use exhaust fans to regulate heat and humidity. Most fan options come with a thermostat that will open the shutter and turn the fan on automatically based on temperature.

Consider Growing Multiple Successions of Greenhouse Tomatoes

Many gardeners don’t consider tomatoes succession crops because healthy, indeterminate plants can produce until frost. Unfortunately, in hot, humid climates like the Southeast, tomatoes often succumb to diseases like blight before frost kills them. Even in other areas, the plant’s productivity may slow over time.

Sowing multiple successions of tomatoes can help ensure you have productive tomatoes throughout the season, whether you want them for fresh eating, the market, or canning.

Additionally, planting multiple successions allows you to grow different types of tomatoes. For example, you can plant Glacier early, followed by a succession of Atkinson. Glacier produces in just 58 days and is extra cold tolerant, while Atkinson, bred by the University of Alabama, excels in hot, humid conditions.A hoop house with tomatoes

Trellis and Prune Your Greenhouse Tomatoes

Tomatoes are large, vining plants. To make the most of your greenhouse or hoop house space, trellis and train the vines vertically.

Most commercial growers use a vertical string system. Many of these systems use twine that’s suspended on a roller or pulley so that you slowly lower the twine as the plant matures, allowing the pruned bottom of the tomato vine to rest on the ground while the tip continues to grow. Growers often refer to this as the lower and lean method.

However, in smaller hoop houses or makeshift greenhouses, you can trellis plants with traditional field methods like the Florida weave, stakes, or fencing panels.

Training vines on a trellis will be much easier if you prune the tomatoes. Pruning also allows for additional air circulation, and when done correctly, can improve yields by encouraging flowering and fruit set. However, you still need plenty of foliage to maintain the plant’s growth. Check out our pruning guide for full instructions.

Irrigation

Tomatoes need consistent moisture, and hot greenhouses can dry out quickly. Water your tomatoes deeply on a regular schedule, allowing the soil to slightly dry between waterings. Consider installing drip irrigation or soaker hoses in your greenhouse to minimize your watering efforts. You can also hand-water small greenhouses and hoop houses with a hose and nozzle. Water the base of the plant and avoid splashing water onto the leaves.Tomato flowers

Pollination

Pollination is necessary for tomatoes to set fruit. If you have a hoop house where you can open the doors and roll up the sides, you may have no problem with pollination. However, in a closed greenhouse or hoop house system, bees and other pollinators won’t have access to your tomato flowers. If you can’t let pollinators in, you’ll need to do the work yourself by using a small paintbrush or Q-Tip to transfer pollen between flowers.

10 Heat-Tolerant Greens to Grow All Summer

Leafy greens are underrated workhorses in the garden. They’re nutritious, easy to use, and highly productive. Unfortunately, the hot weather that arrives all too quickly in southern gardens causes many greens to bolt or start flowering, making them bitter and inedible.

While we enjoy growing and even overwintering tender greens like spinach, endive, lettuce, and Chinese cabbage, we still want to enjoy greens during the summer. These are a few of our favorite heat-tolerant greens that you can grow all summer long to use for salads, sandwich toppings, smoothies, quiches, stir-fries, and more.

Malabar Spinach

The fleshy leaves and ruby-red stems of Malabar spinach make it look like a stunning ornamental, but it’s tasty too! This Asian green makes a wonderful summer spinach substitute, ideal for salads, stir-fries, and thickening summer soups.

Malabar spinach is quite hardy, will regrow even if severely cut back, and will readily self-seed. Thanks to its vigorous, vining nature, it performs best when grown on a trellis. We like to sow them at the base of our spring pea trellises. As the peas start to die back, Malabar spinach begins to flourish in the warm weather, climbing the trellis. It’s the perfect companion plant.New Zealand Summer Spinach plants

New Zealand Summer Spinach

Introduced to the U.S. in 1772, New Zealand summer spinach is a good spinach substitute for hot weather. While it enjoys similar soil conditions to traditional spinach, New Zealand summer spinach is exceptionally heat and drought tolerant. It’s best as a cooked green.

Before sowing, soak your New Zealand summer spinach seeds for 4 to 24 hours to help speed germination.Watercress

Watercress

Watercress is a leafy, aquatic vegetable with a delicious, peppery crunch that makes it a popular choice for salads and finger sandwiches. While it’s not technically the most heat-tolerant, you’ll need cool water and a bit of shade; it is possible to grow it in summer.

We recommend starting watercress in spring through midsummer. In hot weather, grow your watercress in at least partial shade. The traditional option is to plant watercress into a cool stream of fresh water, but you can also grow it in pots of water or trays in a cool spot; you just need to change the water daily. Use enough water so that the crowns float.Callaloo Amaranth Greens

Callaloo Amaranth Greens

We received this delicious Jamaican variety from Melissa DeSa in Florida. It’s a quick-growing, self sowing hot weather green that’s popular throughout the African diaspora, as well as in Asian cuisines. Usually folks enjoy the greens cooked.

After your last frost, direct sow or transplant 3-week-old seedlings. For continuous harvest, plant every 2 to 4 weeks. Space plants up to 18 inches apart. The upright plants can reach 6 to 8 feet tall in favorable conditions! Harvest greens before the plants flower.

Callaloo is tolerant of poor soil, root-knot nematodes, and bacterial wilt. It’s a great green for almost any garden! It also self-sows. Cucumber beetles may occasionally snack on callaloo, but it’s rarely enough to slow down the plant’s growth.Golden Purslane

Golden Purslane

Golden purslane features fleshy orange stems and large, succulent leaves that help it survive hot, dry weather. It’s cut-and-come again and offers a slightly tart, lemony flavor that’s perfect for salads. You can also pickle it for later use or use it medicinally. Herbalists sometimes use purslane, and it’s high in omega-3 fatty acids.

Transplant or direct sow your purslane after all chance of frost has passed, and the soil has reached at least 70°F. Purslane needs full sun to thrive.Magenta Magic Orach

Magenta Magic Orach

Add some color to any salad with magenta magic orach. Magenta magic is the deepest, darkest red of all the orach varieties available. The leaves are slightly spicy and good for salad mixes or sandwiches.

Direct sow your orach after the danger of frost has passed, about 2 inches apart. As the plants grow, thin them to 9 inches apart. You can enjoy the thinned plants. The plants hold their flavor even as they mature in the summer heat. You can continue to harvest leaves as the plants go to seed.Jewels of Opar (Fame Flower)

Jewels of Opar (Fame Flower)

A relative of purslane with panicles of little pink flowers, this elegant plant has many uses. The mild, succulent leaves are great in salads, on sandwiches, and as a spinach substitute. The seed stalks are attractive in dried arrangements with seedpods that dry down through shades of orange, red, brown, gold, and grey. Herbalists also use the plant medicinally.

Jewels of Opar is native to parts of the South and the Caribbean. It tolerates poor soil and will grow in full sun or partial shade. Perennial in zones 8 and up, Jewels of Opar also self-sows readily and may naturalize.

Prismatic Rainbow Chard
Prismatic Rainbow Chard

Swiss Chard

Just a few Swiss chard plants will provide plentiful greens through spring, summer, and fall. In warm climates or with a greenhouse, you may also overwinter Swiss chard, as it withstands light frost.

Swiss chard leaves have an earthy flavor with a hint of bitterness, while the midribs have a slightly sweet crunch that’s similar to celery. Cooking gives chard a mellower flavor, making it ideal for stir-fries.

In the Southeast, blister beetles may attack chard in midsummer. Pick off beetles (wear gloves!), or pull up plants and wait to replant for fall.

Jericho Romaine Lettuce

Jericho Romaine Lettuce

Jericho is among our most bolt-resistant lettuce varieties. Bred in the desert heat in Palestine, Jericho thrives in our hot summers. The tall, heavy, light-green heads retain their sweetness even when other lettuces have gone bitter. Jericho has good tipburn resistance and is a favorite among market growers.

Minnie Mizelle Collards in a greenhouse
Minnie Mizelle Collards

Collards

Collards are among our favorites on this list, and we carry so many great heirloom varieties, it’s too hard to pick just one! Collards tolerate heat and cold well, making them a great option for the Mid-Atlantic, Appalachia, and Southeast. They’re tasty, easy to grow, and high in iron and in vitamins A and C.

Folks mostly use collards as cooked greens, but you can harvest young leaves for salad mixes. Some collards, like cabbage collards, have a milder cabbage-like flavor, while some, like Alabama blue, offer stunning color, and others, like Minnie Mizelle, have a classic earthy, mustard-like flavor. Learn more about how to choose a collard variety for your garden.