Category Archives: Garden Advice

Hot Weather Harvest: Best Practices

We’ve had some extreme heat in Virginia this summer, and we’re not alone. Extreme heat events are on the rise across the United States. Many gardeners know high temperatures can significantly impact plant growth, causing issues like blossom drop, increased disease problems, and reduced production. Unfortunately, high heat can also affect your freshly picked harvest.

In this post, we’ll talk about how heat may impact your freshly harvested produce and what you can do about it.

How Does Heat Harm Your Harvest?

High temperatures can impact the flavor, texture, nutrients, and appearance of your freshly harvested crops.

Increased Respiration: Hot produce undergoes a metabolic process to consume oxygen and stored sugars and carbohydrates, releasing carbon dioxide, water vapor, and heat. This process can make your produce less sweet, reduce its nutrient value, and change its texture.

Cellular Breakdown: High temperatures can cause cellular breakdown, which causes produce to rot more quickly. The longer your produce stays hot, the lower its shelf life will be.

Wilting: Hot weather harvesting can result in rapid water loss, causing wilting and soft textures in vegetables like collards, cilantro, lettuce, arugula, and basil.Large pile of freshly harvested carrots

Time Your Harvest

As you’d suspect, to keep your produce as fresh as possible, you want to harvest when temperatures are as cool as possible. Early mornings or evenings, when the temperatures are lower, the field isn’t in direct sunlight, and the plants are more hydrated, are the best times to pick your crops. Cooler, cloudy days can also be a good choice if they align with your harvest needs.

Immediately Cool Your Harvest

When you harvest your produce, you want to remove any field heat as quickly as possible. For most crops like broccoli, lettuce, and carrots, the best way to do this is to wash them in cool or cold water. For sensitive crops like lettuce, you can rinse off any dirt in cool water and then place them into an ice bath. This will help the leaves cool off and absorb moisture, keeping them crisp and flavorful longer.

Thoroughly dry any crops you wash or hydro-cool in an ice bath. Damp conditions can encourage the growth of mold and bacteria. A salad spinner is helpful for drying greens.

A few hot-weather crops like artichokes, melons, peppers, and tomatoes shouldn’t be tossed into an ice bath or washed immediately after harvesting. For these, move them into a cool space as quickly as possible. Ideally, somewhere with AC.

Hands washing lettuce
Washing lettuce by Bryon Lippincott

Move Your Harvest into the Shade

Move your produce out of the sunlight as quickly as possible. For large summer harvests, it’s best to carry each container of produce into the shade as soon as it’s full before moving on to the next one.

You can also use easy-ups or other shade canopies to temporarily shade the area you’re working in. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can impact your produce’s flavor, texture, and shelf-life.

Store Anything You Won’t Use Immediately at Appropriate Temperatures

Different crops keep best at different temperatures. Some crops like cauliflower, parsnips, and spinach keep well at 32°F. Others, like green beans, watermelons, and tomatoes, will store longer when kept at warmer temperatures between 40°F and 60°F. If you want to keep produce in cold storage, be sure to look up your crop’s exact storage requirements.

Check out the Cornell University Cold Storage Chart & Reference Guide for specifics.

Growing Buckwheat as a Cover Crop

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is a grain crop or short-season cover crop that’s perfect for backyard gardeners and small farmers. It’s quick-growing and can help growers attract pollinators, suppress weeds, add organic matter to the soil, and break down slow-release fertilizers. It’s easy to grow and easy to sneak in between summer and fall crops. Learn more about the benefits of growing buckwheat as a cover crop and how to use it in your crop rotation.

Why Grow Buckwheat?

Buckwheat offers many benefits depending on how you use it.

Weed Suppression

Buckwheat grows at near lightning speed. It’s ready in 30 to 45 days as a green manure crop or 80 days for grain production. This fast growth means that buckwheat is excellent for smothering warm-weather annual weeds. For best weed suppression, you want to sow buckwheat fairly densely. We recommend about one pound of seed for every 400 square feet.

Nurse Crop for Clover

Typically, we experts recommend buckwheat as a spring and summer cover crop, but in the southeast we also recommend it for fall and early winter when paired with crimson clover or other cool-season cover crops. Buckwheat acts as a nurse crop for the crimson clover during the heat of the day, and in the fall, it is killed by frost.

Support Beneficial Insects

Buckwheat’s dense, branching clusters of flowers are rich sources of nectar that support bees and other beneficial insects. It’s especially effective in attracting parasitic wasps, pirate bugs, lacewings, lady beetles, hover flies, and other predatory insects which feed on pests like aphids, thrips, caterpillars, and other pests.

Buckwheat flowers in about four to five weeks and continues flowering for up to 10 weeks. If you want to support beneficial insects like pirate bugs, let your buckwheat flower for at least 20 days so that the insects have time to complete their life cycle.Buckwheat flower

Break Down Slow-Release Fertilizers

Buckwheat’s unique root system produces mild acids, allowing the plants to break down and take up phosphorous and other minerals. When the buckwheat residue decomposes, these minerals become accessible to other crops.

Soil Improvement

For those looking to loosen and improve their soil, buckwheat is also a great option. In the top ten inches of soil, buckwheat creates a dense root system that leaves the soil loose and perfect for the next crop in a low or no-till system.

While buckwheat doesn’t fix nitrogen like legume cover crops do, it can help hold it. The plants grow quickly and take up nitrogen from the soil, preventing its loss through erosion. When you’re ready for the next crop, till in the buckwheat and it will release the nitrogen back into the soil.

When left until flowering, buckwheat also produces a good bit of organic matter, which you can till in or cut and leave on the surface. When left on the surface, it works well as a mulch for fall crops.

Adding Buckwheat to Your Rotation

Buckwheat seeds rot easily in cold, wet soil, and the plant is very susceptible to frost, so wait until your soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed before planting buckwheat in spring. Burying buckwheat too deeply can also rot the seeds, but you don’t want to leave it on the surface either. After broadcasting your buckwheat seeds, it’s best to rake or harrow them into the soil. As your buckwheat germinates, reseed any bare spots for best results.

Buckwheat will grow well in infertile soil, but it will do poorly in heavy, wet soil. It’s often a top choice for newly cleared land, as nitrogen-tie up from woody debris and decaying roots won’t impact its growth.

We frequently use buckwheat’s fast growth to fill in gaps in the summer and keep soil covered between spring or summer and fall crops. Extreme afternoon heat in the summer can cause buckwheat to wilt, but it will bounce back overnight. In hot, dry periods, you’ll need to water buckwheat.

You can also rely on buckwheat as a quick-growing emergency cover crop in the event of crop failure. We like to leave the soil bare as little as possible.

In fall and winter, you can use buckwheat as a nurse crop for cool-season cover crops before frost. You can also allow buckwheat to winter-kill and use it as a mulch for planting late winter or early spring crops.

Managing Buckwheat

Buckwheat rarely has problems with pests or diseases, but it can become a bit of a nuisance in itself. To avoid buckwheat self-seeding, cut or kill your crop before it has flowered for more than a week. Thankfully, the tender stems make buckwheat easy to scythe or mow down.

If you don’t need that plot in the following season or year, you can also allow buckwheat to self-seed. As buckwheat is frost-sensitive, you may want to replace it with a cold-tolerant legume or other cover crop for winter.

Organic Cabbage Worm Control

Heads of cabbage turned to lace, broccoli florets filled with little green caterpillars, or white moths circling your kale patch? You’ve met one of the gardener’s dreaded opponents, the cabbage worm. In this post, we’ll dive into cabbage worms and how gardeners can work to discourage their presence in the garden and protect their crops.

What are Cabbage Worms?

The name cabbage worm refers to at least four different species of Lepidoptera, an order of winged insects that includes moths and butterflies. You may also hear folks refer to the same four species as cabbage loopers or cabbage moths.

Unfortunately, these voracious insects don’t stop at cabbages. They’ll feed on any cole crop or crop that’s in the brassica family, including cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, radishes, mustards, collards, kale, kohlrabi, and turnips.

The moths lay eggs on the plants in spring and early summer. When the eggs hatch, the caterpillars feed on your brassicas.Cabbages interplanted

How to Prevent Cabbage Worms

One of the best ways to keep cabbage worm damage to a minimum is to take preventative steps. If you’re reading this because you’re already in the thick of it, don’t worry; we’ll include steps for managing cabbage worms below.

Clean Up the Garden Every Fall

You may have seen posts and articles talking about how a messy garden is better for pollinators, and this is totally true! Many butterfly, bee, and other beneficial insect species overwinter on plant debris, weedy patches, and other organic material. It’s also true for cabbage moths.

While it’s a good idea to leave a messy section of native wildflower stalks for overwintering beneficial insects, if you’ve had any issues with cabbage worms, it’s best to clean up all your brassica crops. Remove dead plant material and weeds. If the infestation is bad, you can also till in the fall to make sure you expose any hiding in the soil debris.

Grow Your Brassicas Under Floating Row Cover

One of the easiest, most foolproof ways to protect your brassicas is to grow them under floating row cover. It’s essentially like creating a screened-in porch for your plants. It will keep out all the flying insects.

You can purchase row cover and easy-to-use wire hoops to hold it over your plants from most vegetable garden supply companies. Row cover can be expensive. As an alternative, we’ve used tulle, the lightweight fabric used in bridal veils and tutus. Usually, you can find it by a bolt for cheap. If you’re using another alternative material, just ensure it’s thin and breathable, letting in light and air.

While standard row cover is water permeable, you may still need to water your crops a bit more often. Row cover works great with drip-tape irrigation for a low-maintenance option.

Dill flowers
PatríciaR, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Encourage Beneficial Insects and Birds

Cabbage worms are a nuisance in the garden, but not all insects are an issue. Beneficial insects, like parasitic wasp species like the Braconid wasp (Cotesia glomerata) will feed on cabbage moth eggs and caterpillars.

Studies have shown that feeding on nectar, and pollen occasionally extends the lifespan of parasitic wasps. These wasps prefer flowers with dense clusters of small flowers called umbels. Planting flowering species like dill, fennel, sweet alyssum, yarrow, and buckwheat can help attract them to your garden and keep them around longer.

Want more tips for attracting beneficial insects to your garden? Read our full post Pests & Pollination: Attract Beneficial Insects.

Many songbirds also feed on cabbage worm caterpillars, particularly when they’re feeding young in the nest. Attracting birds like goldfinches, bluebirds, house sparrows, Carolina wrens, and chickadees to your garden can help reduce cabbage worm populations.

Check out our blog post Planning a Bird-Friendly Garden for advice.

Try Interplanting or Companion Planting

In addition to planting companion plants to attract beneficial insects and birds, you can also plant crops to deter cabbage moths from laying eggs on your crops. While there are no good studies available, anecdotally dense interplanting can also help reduce cabbage worm damage.

To interplant brassicas, spread out your plants in a bed with other plants between them. Many gardeners report success with fragrant crops like onions, sage, chives, cilantro, wormwood, mint, garlic, thyme, and marigolds.A hand moving cabbage leaves aside to check for cabbage worms

How to Manage Cabbage Worms

Unfortunately, most cabbage worm prevention strategies must be started in advance. Thankfully, if you’re in the thick of it now, there are a few other options.

Spray Your Plants with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis)

BT is an organic pesticide made from a bacterium that naturally occurs in soils throughout the world. While it’s completely safe for humans and pets, BT kills cabbage worms when they ingest it.

While BT is organic, it’s important to realize that it affects all moth and butterfly species, so you should apply it carefully and sparingly.

Handpick the Caterpillars and Swat the Moths

This is my least favorite solution, but some dedicated gardeners make it work. For caterpillars, carry a bucket of soapy water and drop the caterpillars into it . Regularly check the underside of the leaves.

For the moths, some gardeners have luck killing them with a tennis racket. Just make sure you positively identify the species and aren’t killing beneficial species of moths and butterflies by mistake!

Spray Your Plants with a Neem Oil Solution

Some gardeners also use neem oil, another organic pesticide. Unlike BT, it doesn’t kill the caterpillars but disrupts their feeding cycle and deters the moths.

You can create a solution to spray your brassicas using about one gallon of water, two tablespoons of neem oil, and a few drops of dish soap or insecticidal soap. Ensure you spray the undersides of the leaves thoroughly.

 

Cabbage worms can heavily impact your brassica harvest. If they’re an issue in your garden, take these steps to reduce them in your garden and protect your plants.