All posts by Lisa Dermer

Judge Sides With Monsanto: Ridicules Farmers’ Right to Grow Food Without Fear, Contamination and Economic Harm

Judge Sides with Monsanto: On February 24, Judge Naomi Buchwald ruled to dismiss the case OSGATA et al. v Monsanto.

“Family farmers need the protection of the court. We reject as naïve and undefendable the judge’s assertion that Monsanto’s vague public relations ‘commitment’ should be ‘a source of comfort’ to plaintiffs. The truth is we are under threat and we do not believe Monsanto. The truth is that American farmers and the American people do not believe Monsanto. Family farmers deserve our day in court and this flawed ruling will not deter us from continuing to seek justice.” –organic farmer and OSGATA President, Jim Gerritsen

“While I have great respect for Judge Buchwald, her decision to deny farmers the right to seek legal protection from one of the world’s foremost patent bullies is gravely disappointing. Her belief that farmers are acting unreasonable when they stop growing certain crops to avoid being sued by Monsanto for patent infringement should their crops become contaminated maligns the intelligence and integrity of those farmers. Her failure to address the purpose of the Declaratory Judgment Act and her characterization of binding Supreme Court precedent that supports the farmers’ standing as ‘wholly inapposite’ constitute legal error.  In sum, her opinion is flawed on both the facts and the law…” –Plaintiff lead attorney Daniel Ravicher

Read about the decision >>

What to Grow through Very Hot Summers

“Heat-tolerant” and “drought-tolerant” are phrases to look for when selecting the best varieties to grow where summers are very hot. Humidity, especially warm, humid nights, leads to fungal diseases, so it’s also good to look for fungal disease resistance.

Some plants continue producing even during periods of extreme heat and humidity or heat and drought. Here are some of our recommendations:

ozark pink tomatotromboncino squashcrimson sweet watermelon

Beans: If you want green beans and shelling beans throughout the summer, it’s best to expand your repertoire to a few different species. The common green bean, Phaseola vulgaris, doesn’t handle drought or high temperatures. But lots of classic Southern beans love our high-heat summers! Try growing Southern Peas (Cowpeas) like Whippoorwill, White Acre, and Pink Eye Purple Hull. Asparagus Beans (Yard Long Beans) also love heat and humidity – they’re slightly firmer than green beans and quite a bit longer. They’re commonly used in Thai curries. Green Pod Red Seed is the classic, reliable heirloom. If you’re in the Deep South, Chinese Red Noodle takes advantage of the long season and is more heat tolerant. Lima Beans (Butterbeans) are generally very reliable in heat, humidity, and drought.

Tomatoes: Look for tomatoes that come from the Deep South, especially those bred by the universities. The large red slicer Tropic VFN (from the University of Florida) produces through very hot summers.  Ozark Pink VF (from the University of Arkansas) is highly recommended for very hot climates. These blemish-free medium-sized tomatoes have very bright, crisp flavor. For market growers looking for reliability in heat and humidity, Neptune (also from the University of Florida) is a great choice. This medium-large red slicer recently did very well in trials conducted at the University of Georgia.

Eggplant: Take advantage of your summer heat by growing an eggplant that requires it: the flavorful French/Italian heirloom Listada de Gandia thrives in hot weather.  The better known heirloom Black Beauty is also dependable in the South. The long, narrow Asian eggplants like Ping Tung Long also produce well through intense heat.

Peppers: Nematode resistant bell peppers are the best choices for Southern gardeners. Carolina Wonder and Charleston Belle are both excellent. Hot peppers generally thrive in heat and humidity. (Lots of hot places use hot peppers in their cuisines – perhaps because these plants grow so well in hot climates!) Sweet, spicy Aji Dulce peppers have an unusual, complex flavor, with just a hint of heat. They’re generally unaffected by pests and diseases, but they take a little longer to mature than most peppers.

Cucumbers:   Find out which diseases are problems in your area and use the resistance codes to help you choose what to grow. Little Leaf H-19 (from the University of Arkansas) has excellent disease resistance and is well adapted to very hot summers. It’s classified as a pickler, but it’s also very tasty sliced and in salads. Ashley is a slicer particularly recommended where disease is a problem, but my favorite choice for a heat-loving slicer is Suyo Long (the long, slender fruits are best grown on trellises).

Summer Squash and Zucchini: We recommend growing Moschata type summer squash if you have trouble growing summer squash and zucchini in your hot climate. The Moschata types have better pest and disease tolerance and produce well straight through very hot summers. Tromboncino summer squash has the extra advantage of also making excellent squash blossoms for stuffing. Waltham Butternut winter squash can be harvested small (3-5”) for eating like summer squash.  (Moschata types need nights above 60 degrees F to grow well.) You might also try edible Luffa gourds. When harvested small, they’re a great summer squash alternative.   

Winter Squash and Pumpkins: As with summer squash, we recommend choosing moschata types when growing winter squash and pumpkins in the South. (Avoid pepo and maxima types.) Pretty much any moschata will thrive through hot summers, but particularly productive varieties are Seminole Pumpkin, Waltham Butternut, and Tan Cheese. Green-Striped Cushaw is from another type of squash altogether (argyrosperma or mixta). We know Southern gardeners who won’t grow anything but Cushaws: they’re super productive through our summers and their seeds are very large and tasty. The flesh tastes a little different than most winter squash and not as sweet, but it can be used in pies if you add extra sweetener.

Melons: Top Mark, Sweet Passion, and Kansas all have extra disease and/or pest tolerances. Edisto 47 is particularly recommended for hot, humid summers where fungal disease is an issue. Missouri Gold produces well through droughty conditions.

Watermelon: Crimson Sweet and Strawberry watermelon are good choices where heat and humidity make fungal diseases a problem.

Okra: Choose older and heirloom varieties of okra with deeper root systems. The deep roots give these plants resistance to nematodes and improved drought and heat tolerance, but these varieties also usually take longer to mature. Gold Coast is a variety particularly noted for its deep roots, but Stewart Zeebest and Beck’s Big Buck also are excellent heirlooms for the Deep South.

Greens: Lettuce is very difficult to grow outside when it’s hot, and spinach is pretty much impossible, but don’t give up on summer salads and cooked greens.

For cooked greens, Swiss chard and turnip greens are the best choices in the South. These plants are biennials, which means they usually won’t bolt (go to seed) until they’ve gone through their first winter. So they stay tender and mild all summer. Sweet potato greens, New Zealand summer spinach, and the young leaves and shoot tips of squash can all be used for cooking greens.

For salads, buckwheat leaves add an unusual nutty flavor. Grain amaranths like Mayo Indian are very productive in high heat and humidity. Many heat-loving herbs add flavor to salads, including roselle, anise-hyssop, dill, & basil.

We strongly recommend Red Malabar summer spinach to anyone who hasn’t tried growing it yet. The crisp, slightly succulent leaves stay mild in high heat and maintain healthy growth all summer. The gorgeous red vines need to be trellised or caged, but this keeps the leaves clean. They’re excellent as cooking greens and in salad mixes.

Getting More Hot-Season Veg from your Cool-Climate Garden

Are you looking at the new USDA zone map, thinking that now that you’re one zone warmer you might try growing peanuts or southern peas this year? There are lots of of techniques and equipment for extending your growing season in cool climates where hot-season crops barely get enough heat and time to ripen before frosts hit. But often choosing the right variety can make the differnce between a small just-in-time harvest and bountiful production. Here’s our guide to choosing the right varieties, for temperate climate gardeners who want real Southern flavor.

doe hill golden bell pepperping tung long eggplanteva purple ball tomatoesicecream green machine melons

Okra: You might think okra is just for gardeners in the deep South, but we have varieties that mature fruit in as little as 50 days. Okra plants run the gamut from two and half foot tall dwarfs to ten foot tall giants: if your summers are short and cool, you should choose short, quick maturing varieties. Growers as far north as Maine have had success with the excellent heirloom dwarf okra Cajun Jewel. You might also try Lee and the classic heirloom Clemson Spineless. (Note: Pacific NW growers are, sadly, usually unable to grow okra, there just isn’t enough heat for okra to thrive.) 

Peppers: Don’t be intimidated by growing peppers! Lots of heirloom peppers come from Eastern Europe, where summers are more mild. You can grow peppers even if you have cool nights and mild summer days. We suggest looking for short-day varieties that originate in cooler regions: Bull Nose is a medium-sized red bell that’s ready in just 58 days. Medium-sized, early-maturing bells like Gamba and Doe Hill Golden Bell; wax peppers like Early Hungarian and Feherozon; smaller peppers like Lipstick and Ashe County Pimento; and frying peppers like Melrose and Marconi can all produce prolific harvests even in cooler summers.

Tomatoes: Generally, cool-climate gardeners are limited to small or medium sized tomatoes, unless you have a greenhouse. Sophie’s Choice, Eva Purple Ball, and Abraham Lincoln are all medium sized heirlooms that have just as much flavor as the big slicers. Ground Cherries are a tasty, unusual crop for cooler climate growers who want to expand their nightshade crops.

Eggplant: Early Black Egg is a standby for classic dark purple fruits in cooler climates. Ping Tung Long is earlier than Long Purple and perfect for Chinese-style dishes.

Southern Peas: Queen Ann Blackeye Pea is the classic southern pea for gardeners in cooler climates, but if you’re looking for something different, we’re excited to offer Fast Lady Northern Southern Pea, bred especially for very mild summers in the Pacific Northwest, brought to us by Carol Deppe, plant breeder extraordinaire.

Peanuts: Farmers successfully grow peanuts all the way up into the lower reaches of Canada, as far inland as Ontario. One of our growers gets good yields of Tennessee Red Valencia peanuts in Eastern Canada. To get a jump on peanut season, start the seeds in 2″ pots 3–4 weeks before transplanting them out.  

Watermelon: Not only is Blacktail Mountain watermelon very early, it also has the amazing ability to sweeten up in storage even when harvested a bit underripe. If your climate is truly marginal for watermelon, this is the one to grow. 6–8" drought-resistant Sugar Baby is also a good choice, especially for small gardens, and for yellow-fleshed watermelons Early Moonbeam is the best choice.

Melons: Super productive Ice Cream Melon (Green Machine) is sweet and early. The melons are quite small – just right for holding a scoop of icecream.

***A little extra attention is still important for early harvests, even when you’re choosing the ideal early varieties. Don’t start your seedlings too early, or they’ll get too large and will be set back by transplant shock when you do move them out to the garden (harvest could end up later than if you’d waited a couple weeks longer to start them indoors!). Wait to put down organic mulches like straw until after you’ve transplanted, otherwise you could cool the soil. Clear plastic laid down on the beds a couple weeks before transplanting will warm up the ground and help get your plants off to a good start. Raised beds also help the soil warm up earlier. Row cover on plants keeps them warmer and helps them grow faster during their first month. ***